In the heart of Alabama, where the warm Southern breeze whispers tales of tradition and heritage, Emily Blejwas stands as a keeper of the state’s cultural legacy. As a foodie, I love that she’s the author of The Story of Alabama in Fourteen Foods, filled with recipes and illustrations. Moreover, she’s the Director of the Alabama Folklife Association. All in all, Blejwas’s journey to the heart of Dixie was a windy path, leading her from the Midwest to the story-filled landscapes of the South. Now, she aims to share Alabama history with the world.
Chalk eaters, grave shelters and gandy dancing: Blejwas has seen many of Alabama’s folk traditions up close. She has so many Southern stories and experiences that so few of us will get to experience even a fraction of them.
Above all, Blejwas traces her roots back to Southern soil through her grandparents and her father, who hail from North Carolina, Georgia, Virginia, Florida and Mississippi. In 2004, settling in Alabama with her husband, who came to the state to work for the Southern Poverty Law Center, Blejwas embarked on a quest to immerse herself in Alabama history and culture. “I went to Auburn and got a Masters in Rural Sociology,” says Blejwas. “I took it as a moment to learn everything about Alabama.”
As a result, Blejwas delved deep into the essence of her new state, embracing its arts and history as catalysts for community development. Her tenure as Executive Director of the Alabama Folklife Association (AFA), which began in March 2020 amidst the tumult of the pandemic, has been marked by a steadfast commitment to preserving and celebrating Alabama’s diverse cultural heritage.
“Folklife. The word is a little unsatisfying,” she shares. “It’s unsatisfying because it’s not a commonly used term, so people are unfamiliar with it. We always think of quilting and basketmaking when we think of the word. But it’s everything that gets passed down through us.”
For instance, one of the AFA’s Research Fellows pursued a project to explore tornado shelters in North Alabama. “[He has] all these beautiful photos of tornado shelters and captured all these oral histories about tornadoes in the region. It’s a kind of folk architecture that needs to be preserved.”
By comparison, one of Blejwas’s fondest memories of documenting folklife is her experience at the Monroeville Literary Festival, a premier event steeped in the literary legacy of Alabama. Located in the hometown of Harper Lee, author of To Kill a Mockingbird, the festival pays homage to the literary giants who have called Alabama home.
Another cherished tradition she loves is the Okra Festival in Burkville. Amidst the sweltering heat of August, she was introduced to this small town event in rural Alabama, where renowned printmaker Amos Kennedy captures the spirit of the festival in his iconic posters.
Beyond festivals and literary events, Blejwas’ work takes her on unexpected adventures, from turkey hunting expeditions to exploring unique culinary traditions. One such tradition is experiencing the famed chicken stew of North Alabama that stretches across five counties and across the border into Tennessee. Blejwas first tried the stew in East Limestone County, a longtime culinary gem cherished by farm families and shared with the community during fundraisers and social gatherings. “I met them at 3:30 a.m.,” she recalls, “and they began to put this stew together in four big 20-gallon pots for their neighbors.”
You can hear all these fascinating tales of Alabama history through her writing in The Story of Alabama in Fourteen Foods or other academic writers in “Tributaries” (a journal put out by AFA). In her podcasting endeavors (The Alabama Folk podcast is a must listen!), Blejwas also sheds light on the diverse folk traditions that define her state.
“Truthfully, it feels like Alabama is many countries in one,” she says. “It’s an Appalachian vibe up by the foothills. Mobile looks more like Pensacola and Biloxi, compared to Birmingham and Montgomery. I’m not even touching on the immigrant population. There are more and more Latinos in the state. There’s also a pretty large Greek population in Birmingham.”
Hyundai brought in a large Korean community when they built a plant in the state too. “In the bayou, we have Southeast Asian immigrants that are Vietnamese, Laotian, Thai, Cambodian… there are three Buddhist temples in the bayou! It’s amazing.”
As she navigates the complexities of Alabama’s past and present, Blejwas remains dedicated to bridging generational divides and preserving the state’s cultural heritage for future generations. Through initiatives like “Folk in 5,” where fourth graders interview elders about their traditions, Blejwas strives to connect Alabamians across age and cultural barriers.
“I went all over Alabama doing talks,” says Blejwas. “Everybody has a grandma, or a recipe, everyone has memories around food.”
For Blejwas, Alabama is not just a place—it’s a vibrant mosaic of traditions, stories, and flavors waiting to be explored. Here are a few of her faves:
Favorite down-home Southern dish you love: Eating boiled peanuts right out of the kettle in Macon County. That’s near where George Washington Carver—hands down my hero forever—lived and where Tuskegee University is located. I was interviewing a black farmer who sells at the farmer’s markets there. He had jalapenos in the pot with the peanuts. They were as fresh as they could be and had a kick. Around 1910 was the peak of black land ownership in the South, but then there was the Great Migration [where many African-Americans moved North]. I was interviewing him in 2010 and 100 years later, he was the only full-time black farmer in the county.
Favorite BBQ style: I can’t claim a favorite BBQ style. Or if I did, I wouldn’t say it out loud! But I do have a favorite BBQ moment. It was in Sumter County right on the Mississippi line. There they have these BBQ clubs. It’s a very rural tradition. They meet once a month for the barbecue. Men gather over the pork and the women bring a side. You have to be a member or invited by a member. There are six or seven different barbecue clubs in this rural county. One guy started one in 2000 because he didn’t want to travel so far—6 miles was too far! All those clubs have their own sauces. Some keep the recipes a secret and hand it down. I had a chance to make a sauce with someone from the Epps Club.
Favorite drink at a tailgate: A Bushwhacker. Hands down. It’s hard to get just right. It’s got sort of a coffee taste to it. Rum, Kahlua and vanilla ice cream—it’s dessert through a straw. They make them at the Flora-Bama and all down the coast.
Favorite down-home sweet: The older generations would remember Lane cake. It’s the state cake of Alabama and tied to the holidays. And, it’s a three-layer cake that’s laborious to make. Our generation doesn’t make it as often. But the older women remember their grandmothers making it. Also caramel cake. I’ve never been able to make it properly. The frosting is so hard. The Montgomery Curb Market has cake ladies there that make beautiful caramel cake.
Favorite sports teams: I’m an Auburn fan in a house divided. Half of my family is for Auburn. Half are for Alabama. Three Auburn and Three Alabama. No one went to Alabama, but they’re rabid fans. I don’t watch the Iron Bowl. Only one half of the family will be happy, so I try to escape the house that day.
Are you a theater or concert person? Theater. And I love dance. I love all levels of theater. I went to a Mobile Public Schools dance concert last night from all the high schools and it was amazing! My son dances in all different styles and it’s such a joy to watch.
One of the best book I’ve read about the South: Dispatches from Pluto is about Pluto, Mississippi. It’s respectful and insightful by a British journalist.
Biggest misconception about the South: I know the South has a complicated history and complex present reality, but it never gets enough credit for how diverse it truly is. Folklife brings people together. People with very different political views and from different socioeconomic circumstances. It’s the Southern arts and traditions that bring them together across different spectrums. You’ll have a room full of people that you know don’t agree politically, but the tradition—whatever it may be— brings them together.